Timm's BMW E31 WINDSCREEN WASHER REPLACEMENT
My Mora E31 840ci's windscreen washers on the drivers side were absolutely useless, only just enough water hit the screen to clear it, whereas about a gallon reached the passengers side. Although the washers can sometimes be cleared out, I decided to hedge my bets and get a new one, especially as they are only £25 or so. This repair also cures the 'fountain' of water that shoots out of the main tank if the intensive wash is used.
The washer assemblies have two inlet pipes, one is for standard wash, the other for the intensive fluid. Inside the unit are two one-way valves, these stop the intensive wash fluid returning down the standard wash pipes and vice-versa. The valves can perish or debris can be trapped under them and then the intensive wash returns to the standard wash tank causing it to overflow.
Bonnet open and here's the assembly:
To be honest, I didn't have a clue how this came apart, I removed the grille above the nozzle's to get a better look, it had to be twisted out to clear the assembly. The connector block wouldn't come off as the plastic lump above the block stopped it rotating. I eventually realised that the lump above the connector block was a plastic rivet - and removing the rivet allowed all the other parts to come off! For this reason, some of the photographs were taken after the removal/replacement and have old/new bits fitted where they wouldn't be if the routine is followed.
The clips need to be removed first, they are one-use clips and must be cut off. Remove the two pipes:
Disconnect the loom as shown here and then remove the expanding rivet, the right-hand side of the connector remains in the black-plastic housing at this point. The picture shows two new Jubilee clips fitted, the picture was taken after I refitted the new unit - at this point the pipes should be removed:
The assembly can now be removed by tilting down the assembly near the rivet-hole:
I'm using the new assembly to show how to tilt it out - the connector block would still be fitted at this point.
Twist the connector block and it can be removed, the next two pictures show how it is held together, once the block is twisted off, the connector shell can be removed:
The picture above shows how the rivet holds the assembly to the bonnet, the rivet expands the clasp into the bonnet aperture. When replacing the assembly, make sure that the plate shown above is pressed really hard into the aperture otherwise the clasp fails to secure the assembly to the bonnet.
Fit the new connector shell to the housing and rotate it onto the new assembly, fit the two pipes with new Jubilee clips (lubricate the Jubilee clip worms with engine oil, it makes tightening them easier and reduces the chance of snapping the inlet pipes from the assembly).
Tilt the new nozzle into the grille in the same way the old one was removed and then push the clasp into the bonnet aperture. Give it a really good push as you refit the plastic rivet. It took a couple of goes to get the clasps to engage in the bonnet - but once in it holds on well. Refit the loom, test, and aim the nozzles with a pin.
I dis-assembled the assembly to see if I could have cleaned it rather than replacing it. The assembly has a 'u' shaped clip that holds the insides in place - use a small screwdriver to pull it out and then work the insides out from the housing:
Let's face it, that wasn't going to be cleaned and working again! The heater connection has disintegrated and the frizzled plastic is the source of the blockage. I levered off the heater:
And pulled out the springs and one-way valves:
Glad I got a new one!
All done, time for a cup of tea......